Straightpipe Forums
  #31  
Old 10-01-2012, 04:24 PM
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meh, grinder and a skilled welder... the cheapies work too sometimes.
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  #32  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon_x View Post
meh, grinder and a skilled welder... the cheapies work too sometimes.
Well, I went back and forth on repairing the cheapies vs getting new. Long story short these got shipped from Colorado today:





They are made by a one man operation that specializes in these cars (http://www.frontrangefabrication.com/). Price was good, one piece flange at the head and cross-over connection plus the ceramic coating should keep it intact for a while, fingers crossed.

Once this arrives I'll send the head away for a refresh. While that is gone I'll install the bigger oil cooler and clean the top of the block, any tips for that? Aluminium block.
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  #33  
Old 10-26-2012, 06:04 AM
NotAgti NotAgti is offline
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pop and lots of it! :P
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  #34  
Old 10-27-2012, 03:33 AM
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Head is boxed up, hoping to get it sent out tommorow...

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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Full course: 70.467Eddie's S: 73.39

2015 Jeep Wrangler
2009 Subaru Impreza
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  #35  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:23 AM
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Spent an hour tonight pulling apart the cam box so I can take it to be cleaned and ready for re-assembly.

Here it is on the work bench ready for action:



Rotor insert removed:



That exposes the cheese head (triple square) bolt which comes out next:



Next the sleeve comes off the end of the cam:



The cam sprocket comes off next with the help of a gear puller:



The woodruff key comes out of the end of the cam with the help of a vise grip:



The cover comes off and the cam itself follows:



That's better:



Final step the rear cover comes off:

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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

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2015 Jeep Wrangler
2009 Subaru Impreza
2005 Chevy 2500 HD
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  #36  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:29 AM
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Tools for the work tonight. A gear puller is great to have around, I don't use it that often but you can't really be without one if you're doing engine work. Nothing too out of the ordinary, I like using a flex head ratchet because it can double as a speeder on low torque small fasteners. The giant wrench was to counter hold the cam while I removed the cheese head bolt, its actually a 1 1/4 one of the rare times I've used SAE, I guess I don't have a 32 mm wrench, go figure. I'll pick up a deep offset 32 mm wrench for re-assembly to make things easier.

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Full course: 70.467Eddie's S: 73.39

2015 Jeep Wrangler
2009 Subaru Impreza
2005 Chevy 2500 HD
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  #37  
Old 11-03-2012, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrenan View Post
The woodruff key comes out of the end of the cam with the help of a vise grip:

I'm going to assume "vice grip" in the nickname you gave your hand. This whole thread got so much better that way!
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  #38  
Old 11-03-2012, 02:41 PM
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If you've got the cam out, why don't you find a late n/a cam to swap in? They should be pretty much free and give a little bump in power.
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  #39  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
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If you've got the cam out, why don't you find a late n/a cam to swap in? They should be pretty much free and give a little bump in power.
Wait, what? What is this voodoo you speak of? I've never heard that about a late NA cam, is that true? Preach on Justin! What cam? From the 2.7 944 or just a post 85.5 NA?
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Full course: 70.467Eddie's S: 73.39

2015 Jeep Wrangler
2009 Subaru Impreza
2005 Chevy 2500 HD
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  #40  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:48 PM
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http://members.rennlist.org/951_racerx/CamProfiles.pdf

The late n/a cam has a bit more exhaust duration and 1 degree of overlap... so it might be bad for the environment....
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