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  #31  
Old 12-14-2015, 05:50 PM
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Steering lock disabled. Heater delete cover installed. Oil pan baffle built. The baffle is a home made copy of the lindsey racing baffle that was cut from a sheet of 1/8" aluminium and a Canadian tire door hinge. The oil level sensor cutout wasn't needed because this engine never came with that feature.







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  #32  
Old 12-20-2015, 08:26 PM
sliptank sliptank is offline
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totally following this build! keep up the good work!
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  #33  
Old 12-21-2015, 03:21 PM
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The task for Sunday afternoon was to fabricate some brackets to hold the brake cooling ducts on the spindles.

Step 1 Cut pipe



Step 2 Cutting the backing plates





Step 3 Cleaning the cuts



Step 4 Mock up



Step 5 Brock welding: "Safety Third"



Step 6 Chrenan doing his first ever welding!



Step 7 Done! Luckily these are non-structural welds. Plus nobody is going to accuse us of cheating when they see this.

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  #34  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:00 AM
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Spindles assembled, new bearings in the hub.

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  #35  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:09 AM
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Surgically clean bearing assembly.

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  #36  
Old 01-09-2016, 05:49 PM
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Here's some footage of round 1 from the 1986 series around Mosport.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIdDq3GRxvY
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  #37  
Old 01-11-2016, 03:22 PM
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Some work from the weekend, new parts to go onto the control arms.



First up was removing the old caster blocks:



New caster blocks installed:



Then remove the inner metal sleeves and bushing, a press helps for getting theses out:



Then a hacksaw and die grinder to cut the outer factory metal sleeves. This removes the tension so they can be squeezed with a vice by their outer lip and pulled free:





New bushing and inner sleeve installed:



Next up for the control arms is fresh ball joints...
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  #38  
Old 01-11-2016, 03:49 PM
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One of the control arms was replaced with a rebuilt unit a few years ago, the other had many more years on it and put up a big fight in replacing the ball joint. First step in replacing the old ball joint is getting the old one out.



Clean inside out.



Insert new cup.



Assemble pin, cup, spring, and o-ring:





Compress the spring with stand-offs and insert the spiral circlip. Install the grease nipple. The boot is the last step.



That was easy, now let's have a look at the older arm. It was quite corroded, and we tried to clean it up as best we could before installing the new brass cup. Unfortunately After closer inspection, the groove for the circlip is not just full of crud, but also quite corroded and not really trust worthy for a ball joint. We may be doing this job again on a fresher control arm in the near future.



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  #39  
Old 01-13-2016, 04:10 PM
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Default Steering rack rehab

The rack was run unpowered since about 2004, but it had never been removed from the car. The plan was initially to remove the seals from the inside of the rack... but age and rust have not been kind to the threads. The new plan is to drain whatever is left in the rack, grease all the moving parts and loop the line that links the two sides of the rack.

Starting point:


Remove the spring blocking plate and the cap:



Yuck!


More grime and grit!


Bearing ready for cleaning:



I didn't want to take pictures with my greasy fingers, so you'll have to take my word that everything was well greased for reassembly. Next step is to find some bolts to plug up these holes.

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  #40  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:23 PM
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Bilstein HD installed (non-adjustable, non rebuildable) with 350lb springs. We're taking some points here on the springs, but the decision was made before the most recent rule change about springs came out. The solid upper mounts decision was also made before the recent bushings rule came out too. Oh well, we're still doing ok for points.

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