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  #21  
Old 05-05-2013, 05:48 AM
Lil_Guard_Dog Lil_Guard_Dog is offline
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Originally Posted by Var!able View Post
Well, if you don't know how to change your oil here is a link.

http://m.youtube.com/?piggyback=2#/w...has_verified=1

I am starting to understand why you try to argue with people here about why your car needs 91 octane.
I do know how to change my oil, as with most other mechanical things. Comes from living with a mechanic as a stepdad for many years, as well as working at various shops, including a few Edmonton dealerships. I, however, do not have any PLACE to do so, unless it's out on the road (and bylaw really frowns on that), or I make arrangements to use someone else's space to do so, at which point, what's $30 to get the dealership to do it with your own supplies with an inspection to boot, while I'm at work, instead of doing it myself. Same deal goes with most other repairs and such. Hell, my resident manager tried revoking my underground parking abilities for adding washer fluid and checking my tire pressures!

As for the octane, it doesn't necessarily NEED 91, I just find that after months of continuous testing (Same station, same fill level, and a minimum of 10 "fills" that consist of at least 75% of my tank. Duplicating the same filling procedures, whilst only changing the octane ratings of my fuel have shown that 91 gives me the benefit of the best L/100km average. Same concept with the octane additives as well. Same testing procedure, with a fill of a pre-mixed ratio of fuel/additive, for a minimum of 10 "tanks".

Once I believe I found the best octane level, I stick with it for 10 fills, then test another octane that was similar in performance, and see if weather variables, or even driving conditions/habits were the cause of the difference.

This has little to no bearing on actual performance of the vehicle itself in a race situation, but it's my belief that if it can extract better "performance" via daily driving, then it can most likely extract better performance in a racing environment.

I did this same kind of testing with my last car for 3 years straight, and found that 91octane with a Lucas octane booster mixed in a ratio of 1 bottle to every 25 litres of fuel netted me the best in fuel economy. maybe not cost, but fuel economy, which in my mind = better performance of the vehicle.

At the time I was on track with my newest car, I had only had it for a couple months, so no exhaustive testing was done at that time, but I do know that my fastest lap times were while I was running 94octane husky w/2 lucas octane boosters for each 40L of fuel. My last session on track was with only V-Power 91, and I couldn't get near the same peak lap time, although I was more familiar with both track and car at that time.

In the end, we all do what we want for our own reasons. You believe that unless my car specifically calls for 91, it won't get any benefit from such, or higher, I believe different. I don't recall ever stating that anyone else should or had to run any different fuel than what they were, I just argued the fact, from my findings, that my car ran best utilizing 91. Even my new car, running back and forth from work and home with a little shopping trip and such here and there, struggles to hit 400km with 87 octane (which the owners manual recommends) but with the same driving conditions, can almost get 500 (sometimes more) using 91. I think being able to go an extra week almost of work and back is worth the extra cost of fuel, which ultimately, in the long run, ends up costing less from what I've documented on my car in the last 11 months.
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  #22  
Old 05-05-2013, 05:58 AM
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Var!able Var!able is offline
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Right......

You know there is actually more energy in 87 octane then there is in 91 right ?

I don't want to go into this again.. You can continue to waste your money.. After all that is what we were talking about in the first place =P.
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  #23  
Old 05-05-2013, 06:06 AM
Lil_Guard_Dog Lil_Guard_Dog is offline
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Originally Posted by chrenan View Post
Tires? I ran my V12's for 2 seasons, 30 or so events including Stratotech, Namao and other random stuff. Sure they were past their best towards the end, but still perfectly safe. There's always a way to do things on the cheap (but safe) if you are OK with not getting into the arms race of having the coolest fastest car in the parking lot. Old tools, a friend of family members driveway, where there's a will there's a way.
LOL, I went with a CVT for my car...obviously not too tied up with the coolest/fastest...It DOES, however have to be my only car, and if only using 1 set of tires on the vehicle, ends up being mediocre performance on track and dd duty, along with a replacement every year. Dedicated tires, would be a higher up front cost, but would last longer, hence my remark about the exception of having to buy new tires for the 2nd season.

First season - somewhat comparable for price...2nd and on seasons. I can't see doing it for real costing less than a sim, no matter how many ways there are.

Many wills, not too many ways for me. Only people that I can come up with that I see on a regular enough basis to use their driveway (Meaning they HAVE a driveway) live a good hour drive away. Most everyone else I know are renters, and/or don't even own a vehicle.
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2013, 06:20 AM
Lil_Guard_Dog Lil_Guard_Dog is offline
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This thread was originally intended about the discussion of iRacing, and what people are/could use for said simulation, as well as a simple statement that I changed my desire from chasing a hobby (real life racing/lapping) into a desire to further my son's education instead, and what I've done thus far.

I've spent as little as I can, in order to satisfy my base wants for the racing side of my life (about $700 total) which should last me for as long as the hardware actually lasts. (Unfortunately for Logitech, it may not be as long as hoped) and I will only upgrade when necessary.

As for my son though, he's going to be starting something that he enjoys (at least for now) that could lead to a lifetime career, before the government will even allow him into public schools.

I was hoping to find some other like minded iRacers from here to race with (which I have) and otherwise shall disappear from here again, as apparently people who actually prefer sim racing to rl racing are inferior, and differing opinions around here make you an imbecell. (Or at least that's the general vibe I'm getting lately)

Adieu
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  #25  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:56 PM
matt matt is offline
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I'm not going to say that Mike wasn't a dick. And shame on him for it. But nobody called you any names or an imbecile. There are a ton of iRacer's and former iRacers on here but you sort of missed the boat on that one. We had a tournament thing going for a while.

Best of luck in whatever but please don't take the internet personally.
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  #26  
Old 05-06-2013, 07:22 AM
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dc2696 dc2696 is offline
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Originally Posted by Var!able View Post
Right......

You know there is actually more energy in 87 octane then there is in 91 right ?

I don't want to go into this again.. You can continue to waste your money.. After all that is what we were talking about in the first place =P.
Nah, premium has higher potential energy, it's just less volatile and requires more heat to extract it fully.
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  #27  
Old 05-06-2013, 07:33 PM
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I have also found that 87 octane with ethanol gives worse economy than 87 without ethanol. seems like the computer has to dump more fuel in to compensate for the loss of hydrocarbons to be happy resulting in worse economy.
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  #28  
Old 05-06-2013, 11:22 PM
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Ethanol is just the devil in any application.
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2013, 05:04 AM
matt matt is offline
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Ethanol is just the devil in any application.
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  #30  
Old 05-07-2013, 06:16 AM
Lil_Guard_Dog Lil_Guard_Dog is offline
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Originally Posted by GregC View Post
I purchased a Brass sensor wheel to solve the problem. You can epoxy the cracked sensor wheel back together!
So yeah...My calibration was going out again, so I opened it up again to have a look, and the stupid plastic sensor wheel in the unit had disintegrated into a minimum of 4 separate pieces inside the unit. Attempted to repair it, and it just made it worse, so now I don't even have a sensor wheel anymore in the thing. Useless.

@ Greg, you mentioned PM'ing me the details of where you got your brass sensor wheel, but I haven't seen anything thus far. Any chance of you digging that up please?
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